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The Bagan Travel Guide

BaganTravel Guide: Things To Do, Where To Stay & Best Time

ပုဂံCentral Myanmar21.17° N · 94.86° E

Thousands of brick temples and pagodas scattered across a dusty plain beside the Ayeyarwady River. Here is how to explore them, when to come, where to stay and what to pair them with.

Temples At Sunrise
Ananda Temple
Ayeyarwady River
  • Best timeNovember to February
  • Ideal stay2 to 3 nights
  • AirportNyaung U (NYU), 15 min
  • Known forTemples, sunrise, lacquerware
Welcome To Bagan

A Plain Of Temples On The Banks Of The Ayeyarwady

Bagan was the capital of the first great Burmese kingdom, and between the 11th and 13th centuries its kings and nobles built temples, stupas and monasteries here by the thousand. More than 2,000 of them still stand across the plain, from huge white-washed temples with gilded spires to small brick shrines hidden in the scrub. In 2019 Bagan was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

The scale is what stays with people. Climb into a car or onto an e-bike, follow a sandy track for a few minutes and you can find yourself alone inside a temple with centuries-old murals on the walls. At dawn and dusk the light turns the brick a deep orange, and in the cooler months hot air balloons drift over the spires at sunrise.

Most travellers spend two or three nights here, usually between Mandalay and Inle Lake or after a flight from Yangon. This guide covers the temples worth your time, how to get around, the honest truth about sunrise viewing today, where to stay and what to see beyond the plain, from Mount Popa to the river.

Our Honest Take

Is Bagan Worth Visiting?

What We Love

  • Nowhere else in Asia has this density of ancient temples in one landscape, and many of the smaller ones you can have entirely to yourself.
  • Sunrise and sunset over the plain, whether from a viewing mound, a balloon in season or a boat on the river.
  • It is easy to combine with craft villages, Mount Popa and a slow stretch of the Ayeyarwady, so the days have variety.

Good To Know

  • Climbing on the temples is no longer allowed, to protect them. Sunrise and sunset are now watched from man-made viewing mounds, a few designated spots, a boat or a balloon.
  • From March to May it is very hot in the middle of the day, so plan temples for early morning and late afternoon and rest at lunchtime.
  • Access to Myanmar depends on the current situation and official travel advice, which changes often. Check before you plan and we will tell you honestly whether Bagan is a sensible choice at the time.
Private Journeys

Bagan Tours

Every journey below is private and tailor-made, with a local guide who knows the temples and a pace that suits the heat and your interests.

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From Sunrise To Late

A Perfect Day In Bagan

How our local guides would spend one full day on the plain, starting before sunrise and resting through the hottest hours.

  1. Dawn

    Sunrise over the plain

    Watch the temples appear out of the dark from a viewing mound, or from a balloon basket in the cooler months.

  2. Morning

    Shwezigon Pagoda

    A great gilded stupa near Nyaung U, busy with local pilgrims and a model for many later Burmese pagodas.

  3. Morning

    Ananda Temple

    The most loved temple in Bagan, with four tall standing Buddhas facing the four directions.

  4. Noon

    Lacquerware in Myinkaba

    Watch craftspeople build up layers of lacquer on bamboo and engrave fine patterns by hand.

  5. Noon

    Lunch and a rest

    A Myanmar curry spread with lots of small side dishes, then a break from the midday heat.

  6. Afternoon

    Dhammayangyi and Sulamani

    The biggest temple on the plain, then one of the finest, with murals and carved stucco.

  7. Sunset

    Sunset on the Ayeyarwady

    Drift on a small boat as the sun drops behind the hills across the river.

  8. Night

    Dinner in Nyaung U

    A relaxed evening in the town, where most of the local life and places to eat are.

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How To Explore The Temples

Getting Around The Plain, And Seeing Sunrise Today

The archaeological zone is large, the tracks are sandy and the sun is strong, so how you move around shapes your whole visit. Here is how we would do it.

01Our pick

Private car with a guide

The best way to start. A guide who knows the temples can take you to the major sites in the right order and then off the main roads to quiet shrines with murals.

  • Air conditioning between stops
  • Best for the first day
  • Good for families and older travellers
02Most freedom

E-bike

Electric scooters are the favourite way to wander the dirt tracks at your own pace. They are easy to ride but the sand can be slippery.

  • Only if you are confident on two wheels
  • Carry water and sun protection
  • Batteries need charging overnight
03Slow and classic

Horse cart

A gentle, bumpy way to see a cluster of temples, especially around Old Bagan. Lovely for an afternoon, but too slow to cover the whole plain.

  • Best for a few hours
  • Good at golden hour
04Sunrise and sunset

Where to watch now

With temple climbing no longer permitted, the views come from man-made viewing mounds, a few designated spots, the river, or a hot air balloon in the cooler months, roughly October to March.

  • Balloons are weather dependent and book up early
  • Mounds can be busy, so arrive early
  • A sunset boat is the calmest option
Things To Do

12 Best Things To Do In Bagan

The experiences our travellers enjoy most, in order of what we would not miss.

  1. 01

    Ananda Temple

    Built around 1100 and still the most graceful temple in Bagan, with four towering standing Buddhas facing north, south, east and west, and long cool corridors.

  2. 02

    Shwezigon Pagoda

    A gleaming gilded stupa near Nyaung U, begun by King Anawrahta and still an active place of worship. Come early to see pilgrims at prayer.

  3. 03

    Dhammayangyi Temple

    The largest temple on the plain, a massive brick pyramid with remarkably fine masonry and inner corridors that were sealed long ago, which only add to its mystery.

  4. 04

    Sulamani Temple

    One of the finest late Bagan temples, with soft-coloured murals, carved stucco and a peaceful setting that rewards a slow walk around the outside.

  5. 05

    Thatbyinnyu and Old Bagan

    The tallest temple in Bagan rises over the old walled area, close to Gawdawpalin and the Tharabar Gate. A good cluster to explore by horse cart.

  6. 06

    Gubyaukgyi in Myinkaba

    A small, dark temple with some of the oldest and best-preserved murals in Bagan. Bring a torch or ask your guide for one.

  7. 07

    Sunrise from a viewing mound

    Man-made viewpoints now replace temple climbing, and on a clear morning the plain fills with silhouettes as the light comes up.

  8. 08

    Hot air balloon at dawn

    In the cooler, drier months, roughly October to March, balloons lift off at sunrise for a slow drift over the spires. Book well ahead.

  9. 09

    Lacquerware workshops

    Bagan is the home of Myanmar lacquerware. Visit a family workshop to see bamboo shaped, coated and engraved by hand over many weeks.

  10. 10

    Nyaung U market

    A real local market for fruit, thanaka, longyi cloth and snacks, best in the morning before the heat builds.

  11. 11

    Sunset on the Ayeyarwady

    A small boat on the wide, slow river gives a different view of the riverside pagodas and a calm end to a hot day.

  12. 12

    Day trip to Mount Popa

    About 1.5 hours away, a monastery perched on a volcanic plug, home of the nat spirits. The climb up is busy with monkeys and pilgrims.

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Where To Stay

Where To Stay In Bagan

Each neighbourhood has its own rhythm. Pick the one that sounds like you, or let us surprise you.

Among the temples

Old Bagan

Hotels inside the archaeological zone, surrounded by temples and close to the river. Quiet at night, with fewer places to eat.

  • Temple lovers
  • Couples
  • Quiet nights
Local and practical

Nyaung U

The main town, near the airport and the jetty, with the most restaurants, the market and a lively local feel.

  • Food
  • Value
  • Short stays
Relaxed and residential

New Bagan

A calmer village to the south, close to the lacquerware workshops and the southern temples, with a handful of riverside hotels.

  • Families
  • Longer stays
  • Crafts
Can't decide?

Let Us Surprise You

Tell us your style and our consultants will hand-pick a stay you would never find on your own.

Our little secret

A Stay With A Story

A restored heritage house, a quiet lakeside villa or a family-run boutique: we match the hidden gem to you, and reveal it with your itinerary.

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Getting There & Around

How To Get To Bagan And Get Around

Arriving in BaganOrient Charm
NYUNyaung U Airport
BAGANOld Bagan
DistanceAbout 10 km
By carAbout 15 to 20 min
TransferPrivate, with a name sign

Most travellers fly into Nyaung U from Yangon or Mandalay, or drive from Mandalay in about 4 to 5 hours. In some seasons there are also boats down the Ayeyarwady from Mandalay, a long but memorable day on the river.

Getting around Bagan

Private car

Included on our journeys, ideal for the main temples and the trip to Mount Popa.

Best for: First day, hot weather
E-bike

Electric scooters for wandering the sandy tracks at your own pace.

Best for: Confident riders
Bicycle

Possible on the paved roads, but tiring in the heat and hard going in sand.

Best for: Short cool rides
River boat

Small boats for a sunset trip or a crossing on the Ayeyarwady.

Best for: Sunset
Money
  • Myanmar kyat (MMK)
  • Cards accepted in few places, and ATMs can be unreliable
  • Carry cash, and ask us how best to handle money before you travel
When To Go

The Best Time To Visit Bagan

November to February is the most comfortable time, with dry weather, cooler mornings and the hot air balloon season. March to May is very hot, so plan sightseeing for early and late in the day. Bagan sits in the dry zone and gets less rain than much of Myanmar during the June to October monsoon, but it is humid and the tracks can turn muddy.

  • Best
  • Good
  • Hot, wetter or less ideal
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Bagan

A general guide. Weather varies from year to year, and we plan each route around the season.

Good To Know

Bagan Travel FAQs

Quick answers from our local team. Anything else, just ask your travel specialist.

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Is Bagan worth visiting?

Yes, for most travellers it is one of the highlights of Southeast Asia. Few places have so many ancient temples in one landscape. If temples do not interest you at all, one full day may be enough, but most people wish they had stayed longer.

How many days do I need in Bagan?

Two full days cover the major temples, a sunrise, a sunset boat and a lacquerware workshop at a sensible pace. Add a third day for Mount Popa or simply more time among the quieter temples.

Can you still climb the temples in Bagan?

No. Climbing on the temples has been stopped to protect them. You can watch sunrise and sunset from man-made viewing mounds and a few designated spots, from a boat on the river or, in the cooler months, from a hot air balloon.

When is the hot air balloon season in Bagan?

Balloons usually fly in the cooler, drier months, roughly October to March, and only when the weather allows. Flights are popular and limited, so book well ahead if a balloon is important to you.

What is the best way to get around Bagan?

We suggest a private car with a guide for your first day to get your bearings, then an e-bike or a horse cart if you want to wander. Bicycles are possible but hard work in the heat and sand.

What should I wear to the temples in Bagan?

Cover your shoulders and knees, and be ready to take off shoes and socks at every temple, including on the hot ground outside. Sandals that slip on and off easily make life much simpler.

Is Bagan safe to visit?

Travel advice for Myanmar changes often, and many governments advise against travel to some or all of the country. Check your government's latest advice and your travel insurance before planning. We only suggest routes our local team considers safe at the time, and we will tell you plainly if a place is not a good idea right now.

How do I get from Mandalay to Bagan?

By road it takes about 4 to 5 hours in a private car. Flights take around 30 minutes. In some seasons boats run down the Ayeyarwady, which takes most of a day but is a lovely way to arrive.

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