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杭州Eastern China30.25° N · 120.15° E
A lake of willow-lined causeways, temple hills and tea villages, an hour from Shanghai by fast train. Here is what to see, what to eat and how to avoid the crowds.
Hangzhou has been praised by Chinese poets for more than a thousand years, and the reason is still West Lake. Wooded hills wrap around three sides of the water, two long causeways cross it, and pagodas, pavilions and islands are placed as carefully as in a painting. The lake and its cultural landscape were inscribed by UNESCO in 2011, and they remain one of the most loved scenes in China, for Chinese visitors as much as for foreign ones.
Beyond the shore, the hills hide Lingyin Temple and its Buddhist rock carvings, and the slopes to the south-west are terraced with Longjing, or Dragon Well, tea. The city itself is large and modern, with a busy tech economy, but the lake side feels green and unhurried, especially early in the morning. Hangzhou is also the southern end of the Grand Canal, another UNESCO site, and an easy base for the water towns and Huangshan.
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The experiences our travellers enjoy most, in order of what we would not miss.
Take a small boat or a slow ferry across the lake to Three Pools Mirroring the Moon, a little island with stone lanterns rising from the water. Morning light is softest.
Two tree-lined causeways named after poet-governors cut across the lake. Walk or cycle them early, before the tour groups, for willows, arched bridges and views of the hills.
One of China's best-known Buddhist temples, set in a wooded valley. On the way in, the limestone cliffs of Feilai Feng hold hundreds of carved Buddhist figures, some about a thousand years old.
Drive into the hills to Longjing or Meijiawu, where families grow and hand-roast Dragon Well green tea. Spring picking season is the most interesting time to visit.
A rebuilt pagoda on the southern shore, linked to the Legend of the White Snake. Climb for wide views over the lake, especially lovely in the late afternoon.
A large area of waterways, marsh and old villages on the west side of the city. Quiet boat rides here feel a world away from the lakeside crowds.
See the southern end of the Grand Canal at Gongchen Bridge, then stroll Hefang Street and Qinghefang, a restored old quarter of shops, teahouses and traditional pharmacies.
Stroll the eastern shore after dark when the pagodas and bridges are lit. A musical fountain show runs near the shore on many evenings, though it can be very crowded.
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Customise My TripLocal specialities worth seeking out, and when the locals eat them. Your guide will know the best places to try each one.
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Close to the lake, the shopping streets and Hefang Street, with easy evening walks along the water.
Hotels among the trees near the tea villages and Lingyin, peaceful at night but a short drive from the city.
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A restored heritage house, a quiet lakeside villa or a family-run boutique: we match the hidden gem to you, and reveal it with your itinerary.
Ask for a surprise stayMost travellers arrive by high-speed train from Shanghai, Suzhou or Nanjing. Hangzhou Xiaoshan Airport has domestic flights and some international routes, about an hour from the lake by road.
The easy way to reach the tea villages, Lingyin and Xixi, which are spread around the hills; included on our journeys.
Best for: Hills and villagesFlat lakeside paths and the causeways are made for cycling, with bike sharing widely available.
Best for: Lake circuitThe best way to enjoy the causeways and the eastern shore, though the full lake loop is a long day.
Best for: CausewaysPlaces that pair well with Hangzhou, with approximate travel times.
Spring, from late March to May, brings blossom on the causeways and the new tea harvest, and autumn from September to November is clear and mild with osmanthus in the air. Summer is hot and humid, with plum rains in June. Winter is cool and damp but quiet, and a rare snowfall on the lake is a famous sight. Avoid the October national holiday if you can.
A general guide. Weather varies from year to year, and we plan each route around the season.
Quick answers from our local team. Anything else, just ask your travel specialist.
Ask us on WhatsAppYes, especially if you want a gentler side of China after Shanghai or Beijing. West Lake, its temples and the tea villages make a relaxed, beautiful two or three days. It is a large modern city, so the charm is concentrated around the lake and the hills rather than in old streets.
Two full days covers West Lake, Lingyin Temple and a tea village at an easy pace. A third day lets you add Xixi Wetland, the Grand Canal or a trip to a nearby water town such as Wuzhen. Many travellers then continue by fast train to Huangshan or Suzhou.
It is possible, as the high-speed train takes about an hour, and a guided day can cover the lake and Lingyin. But you miss the lake at its best in the early morning and evening, so we usually suggest at least one night.
The full loop is roughly 15 km and takes most of a day on foot with stops. Most visitors walk the eastern shore and one causeway, then use a boat or a bicycle to cover the rest. Starting early keeps you ahead of the busiest hours.
The most prized tea is picked in spring, from around late March to April, before and just after the Qingming festival. Visiting a tea village then lets you see leaves being picked and roasted by hand in large woks. Exact timing shifts a little each year with the weather.
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