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The Dali Travel Guide

DaliTravel Guide: Things To Do, Food, Where To Stay & Best Time

大理South-West China25.69° N · 100.16° E

An old walled town between the Cangshan mountains and Erhai Lake, with Bai villages, slow lakeside days and pagodas older than a thousand years. Here is what to see, eat and expect.

Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple
Erhai Lake
Xizhou village
  • Best timeMarch to May, September to November
  • Ideal stay2 to 3 nights
  • Arrive byTrain to Dali station, about 2 hours from Kunming
  • Known forOld town, Erhai Lake, Bai villages
Welcome To Dali

An Old Town Between The Mountains And The Lake

Dali lies at about 2,000 metres in western Yunnan, on a strip of land between the Cangshan range and the long, blue Erhai Lake. It was the seat of the Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms long before it became part of China's south-west, and it is the heartland of the Bai people, whose whitewashed houses with painted gables line the villages along the lake shore.

Today most visitors stay in or near Dali Old Town, a walled grid of stone streets, gates and courtyard guesthouses, about 30 minutes from the modern city of Xiaguan where the station is. The old town is busy and commercial in the evenings, but step out to Xizhou, cycle along the lake or ride up into the Cangshan forests, and Dali becomes one of the most relaxed places in China.

Our Honest Take

Is Dali Worth Visiting?

What We Love

  • Cycling or driving along Erhai Lake past Bai villages, fishing boats and the mountains reflected in the water.
  • Xizhou, a working Bai village with fine old courtyard houses, a morning market and its famous baked flatbread.
  • The Three Pagodas framed against the Cangshan mountains, especially in the late afternoon light.

Good To Know

  • Dali Old Town's main streets are lined with shops and can feel commercial, especially on weekends and holidays.
  • The lakeside villages are popular, and parts of the lake road are busy with cars and electric scooters.
  • Nights are cool all year and the sun is strong at this altitude, so bring layers and sun protection.
Private Journeys

Dali Tours

Our Dali journeys are private and tailor-made, usually combining the old town and the lake with Lijiang, Shangri-La or a quieter village stay.

Not sure which one? Let us match you

We tailor every trip. Want more time in Dali, a different pace or a mix of places? Design my trip

Things To Do

8 Best Things To Do In Dali

The experiences our travellers enjoy most, in order of what we would not miss.

  1. 01

    Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple

    Three tall pagodas, the largest from the Nanzhao era more than a thousand years ago, stand in front of a large rebuilt temple complex. Allow time to walk up through the halls to the views at the top.

  2. 02

    Dali Old Town

    A walled town of stone streets, gates and courtyard houses. Walk the walls at the South Gate, then explore the quieter lanes away from the main shopping streets.

  3. 03

    Erhai Lake

    A long highland lake fringed by villages and fields. Cycle a stretch of the shore, take a boat, or simply sit by the water in the late afternoon as the light changes on the mountains.

  4. 04

    Xizhou village

    A Bai village known for its grand old merchant houses, carved gateways and a lively morning market. Try the local baked bread fresh from the stall.

  5. 05

    Cangshan mountains

    Cable cars lift you into the forests above Dali, where a long, level path traces the slopes with views down over the town and the lake.

  6. 06

    Bai tie-dye in Zhoucheng

    A village known for its indigo tie-dye cloth. Watch the process in a family workshop and see how the patterns are tied and dyed by hand.

  7. 07

    Bai three-course tea

    A traditional welcome of three teas, bitter, sweet and lingering, often served with music and dance. A simple way to learn about Bai hospitality and customs.

  8. 08

    Shuanglang and the east shore

    A quieter stretch of the lake with small fishing villages and views back across the water to the Cangshan range, best visited in the morning before the day traffic.

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What To Eat

What To Eat In Dali: 5 Dishes To Try

Local specialities worth seeking out, and when the locals eat them. Your guide will know the best places to try each one.

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喜洲粑粑

Xizhou baked bread

A round flatbread, sweet or savoury, baked over charcoal on the street in Xizhou and eaten warm.

Snacks

乳扇

Rushan

Thin sheets of dried milk, grilled or fried and sometimes wrapped around a sweet filling. A Bai speciality.

Snacks

饵丝

Ersi rice noodles

Thick rice noodles served in a broth or stir-fried, a common breakfast across Dali.

Snacks

砂锅鱼

Casserole fish

Fish from the lake area simmered in a clay pot with tofu, mushrooms and vegetables.

Mains

酸辣鱼

Sour and spicy fish

Fish cooked in a tangy, chilli broth, a favourite in Bai restaurants around the lake.

Mains
Where To Stay

Where To Stay In Dali

Each neighbourhood has its own rhythm. Pick the one that sounds like you, or let us surprise you.

Lively and walkable

Dali Old Town

Inside or near the old walls, close to restaurants, gates and evening walks. Busy at night, with many courtyard hotels.

  • First visits
  • Walking
  • Restaurants
Village and traditional

Xizhou

A Bai village about 30 minutes north, with old courtyard houses, a morning market and quiet evenings.

  • Couples
  • Culture
  • Calm
Scenic and slow

Erhai lakeside

Small hotels in villages along the shore, with lake views but fewer places to walk to in the evening.

  • Views
  • Longer stays
  • Rest
Can't decide?

Let Us Surprise You

Tell us your style and our consultants will hand-pick a stay you would never find on your own.

Our little secret

A Stay With A Story

A restored heritage house, a quiet lakeside villa or a family-run boutique: we match the hidden gem to you, and reveal it with your itinerary.

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Getting There & Around

How To Get To Dali And Get Around

Arriving in DaliOrient Charm
TRAINDali Station
OLDTOWNDali Old Town
From KunmingAbout 2 hours by high-speed train
Station to old townAbout 30 min by car
Best wayPrivate car with driver

Dali station is in Xiaguan, the modern city at the southern end of the lake. Dali Airport also has flights from Kunming and other large cities, about 45 minutes to 1 hour from the old town by road.

Getting around Dali

Private car

The best way to link the old town, Xizhou, the pagodas and the lake shore; included on our journeys.

Best for: Lake loop
Bicycle

Electric and regular bikes are easy to rent for a ride along flat parts of the lake shore.

Best for: Erhai Lake
On foot

The old town is compact and easy to explore on foot, though the streets are cobbled.

Best for: Old town
When To Go

The Best Time To Visit Dali

Spring and autumn bring clear skies and comfortable days, with flowers in March and April. The rainy season runs roughly from June to September, when showers are frequent but the hills turn green. Winter is dry and sunny by day but cold at night, and the lake can be windy.

  • Best
  • Good
  • Hot, wetter or less ideal
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Dali

A general guide. Weather varies from year to year, and we plan each route around the season.

Good To Know

Dali Travel FAQs

Quick answers from our local team. Anything else, just ask your travel specialist.

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Is Dali worth visiting?

Yes, especially if you enjoy a slower pace. Dali combines an old walled town, Bai village culture and a large lake framed by mountains. The old town itself is busy and commercial, so the real highlights are in the villages, the lake shore and the Cangshan mountains around it.

Dali or Lijiang: which is better?

They suit different moods. Dali feels more open, with a lake, villages and room to cycle, while Lijiang has a larger, more intricate old town and is closer to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Many travellers visit both, as they are only about 1.5 to 2 hours apart by train.

How many days do you need in Dali?

Two or three nights is ideal. One day for the old town and the Three Pagodas, one for Xizhou and the lake shore, and a third if you want to ride up into the Cangshan mountains or visit the quieter eastern shore.

Can you cycle around Erhai Lake?

You can cycle sections of it, and the flat stretches near Xizhou and Caicun are popular. The full loop is long, so most people ride part of the shore and let a car carry the bikes for the rest. Avoid weekends and holidays, when the lake road gets crowded.

What is the altitude of Dali?

Dali Old Town sits at about 2,000 metres. Most people feel fine, though you may notice the thinner air on stairs or when climbing in the Cangshan mountains. Drink water, wear sun cream and pace your first day. It is also a good place to adjust before higher Shangri-La.

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